Masa y Más Brings More Tacos to South Lamar

A carnitas taco on corn and a birra taco on blue corn at Masa Y Más (photos by Jana Birchum)

Tacos in Austin may not be a dime a dozen given today's inflationary times, but they are certainly abundant. Said abundance hasn't stopped more purveyors of one of the city's favorite foods from opening new taco joints, though. One of these is Masa y Más on South Lamar, from the folks who brought us Hopdoddy Burger Bar and Moonshine Grill. Chef Roberto Campos brings his experience with that group along with family recipes straight from Mexico to a bright spot south of the river, beckoning the trendy masses to drop by for a meal.

At the heart of Masa y Más is corn. While flour tortillas are available, the blue and white corn versions should be on every patron's radar. They are made in-house, with subtle differences between the two. Maybe surprisingly, the white corn has a more robust flavor profile. These are put to great use in the featured section of the menu: the tacos.

The interior of Masa Y Más is bright and vibrant

Comprising eight offerings (with more as weekend specials), these tortilla-based entrées are why most people will walk through the door. The results are mostly good and occasionally great. The suadero taco features seasoned brisket, an easy call in this barbecue-crazy town. It's solid on both corn and flour. The birria comes with traditional consommé for dipping (or slurping), and while it's no longer a surprise seeing it on a menu, this one is a fine example of the form. Barbacoa is usually rich, and this version is no exception. While it's definitely on the greasy side, that's a selling point for this unctuous meat. The most pleasant surprise is the camarones taco, which has battered shrimp that is eerily similar to the honey walnut prawns one might find at a Chinese restaurant. It works. The al pastor looks the part, but fails to deliver. Save that craving for elsewhere.

The can't-miss taco at Masa y Más, though, turns out to be the carnitas. This is a very simple food, but when done right, as it is here, the results are sublime. Likewise, the vegetarian option with its mushrooms and potatoes will please all comers. Some might balk at the price tag on these tacos, which hang out at about $5 each (some more, some less), but they are generously filled, which lessens the sting a bit.

The sides and starters are a mixed bag. Several offerings look absolutely tremendous on the page but fail in practice. The Brussels sprouts are topped with arbol hot honey, pumpkin seeds, and cotija cheese. Despite this, they fall short of comparable dishes around town. The roasted beets seemed more boiled than baked, and the elote callejero would have been better served plain than drenched in huitlacoche mayo. Luckily, the arroz Mexicano and frijoles are as good or better than any. The rice is packed with flavor and has an absolutely perfect texture. The frijoles in both charros and refried versions are delightful, with the latter made of black beans for a nice Austin touch.

This mural at Masa Y Más beckons drivers on South Lamar

The starters are fine; the queso and guacamole are serviceable. However, the humble salsa is anything but. This bold concoction is made with beer, of all things, and would be an improvement over most table hot sauces in the Tex-Mex world. When was the last time salsa exceeded expectations? Definitely get some to take home.

The dessert portion of the Masa y Más menu is small but mighty. The dulce here is called a Fro*chata and as the name implies, it's frozen horchata. There are added flavors available, such as caramel, matcha, and chocolate, but taking it straight might just be the way to go. This one will delight kids of all ages, as will the aguas frescas. Be sure to sample the tamarind or strawberry horchata when they are in rotation before selecting the perfect sweet drink. Cerveza, cocktails, and wine are available to diners, too.

Sitting right at the juncture of South Lamar and West Mary, the building Masa y Más occupies jumps out at drivers with a festive mural proclaiming, "Soy porque somos" ("I am because we are"). The staff are pleasant and attentive, and indoor seating is plentiful, including a cozy bar, but outdoor tables are sure to be a favorite.

Masa y Más doesn't break any new ground in Austin dining, and there are some misses on the menu. Despite that, diners can enjoy a fantastic meal in a lively and vibrant setting. Just stick to the basics and dig in!

Masa y Más