Restaurant Review: Golden Hour

A savory, sumptuous toast of the day (Photo by John Anderson)

What a time to live in Southwest Austin, where Menchaca Road flows like a river, which until now has lacked something like Golden Hour: a cafe/wine bar as upscale or as low-key as you want to make it. With anchors like Cherry Creek Catfish Co. and a burgeoning entertainment district south of Slaughter, a friendly, quiet spot with a serious coffee program, an all-natural wine selection, and a gorgeous patio area is head-twistingly unexpected.

There are no entrées, just small plates, for breakfast, lunch, and a light dinner, on the menu at Golden Hour, along with an all-natural wine program. "I was going with a Marfa or Santa Fe vibe, or Paris or L.A., if that makes sense, to remove the fluff," chef/owner Barclay Stratton said.

Proud of his sourcing, Stratton gets many ingredients from gourmet food importer Regalis Foods, including the 5 kilogram tower of Rodolphe Le Meunier butter tempering behind the counter. Breads and other baked goods come from Sour Duck, excepting the olive oil cake, which is made in-house.

Breakfast any day of the week at Golden Hour can easily feel like brunch, because the daily toast is sumptuous and indulgent. The space is modern, elegant, but could use some more sound absorbency. My toast of the day was challah topped with a large dollop of labne, covered with smoked salmon, sliced shallots, and capers and drizzled with olive oil. Reader, it was sublime: rich, satisfying, delicious, kept me going strong all morning. My inner cheapskate squealed at forking out more than $20 for breakfast with tip, but I loved my espresso, and sitting on the elegant natural leather chairs at the counter was a luxurious experience.

Roasted red peppers and local chèvre (Photo by John Anderson)

That said, dinner gave me some sticker shock, specifically at the chalkboard's casual declaration that a plate of roasted red peppers and local chèvre is $14. I ordered the high-priced peppers, plus a cheese plate and a glass of ¿Y tú de quién eres? white wine suggested by the counter staffer. My husband opted for the green salad with seaweed, sprouts, and toasted breadcrumbs recommended by the staffer, who claimed it as her favorite thing on the menu.

The cheese plate skews sweet, and Stratton says that it will always have seasonal preserves and honey. How are we meant to eat the $14 roasted peppers, which arrived on their own, without any accompaniments? I used a knife and fork, but some bread or crostini would be better for sopping up and enjoying the parsley-flecked oil. Please be advised, diners are meant to order bread if they want it. It's on the menu. And the cheese plate, while fabulous, only comes with two small slices of bread. This, I feel, is not enough bread (not now, not ever). But the green salad – a large bowl filled with hand-torn butter lettuce and avocado, and topped with toasted breadcrumbs – was a revelation. It felt like a steal, and my husband admitted days later he was still thinking about "those crunchy bits." But chatting during dinner was challenging; the ambient volume was between 60 and 90 decibels while we were there.

A sampling of Golden Hour's selection of natural wines (Photo by John Anderson)

The wines we tasted were delicious and paired very well with the food, and the food was excellent, if nervy. We decided to share a bottle of Soto Vino Space Cowboy, a fresh, young-tasting effervescent natural red wine. Natural wines are made from grapes and a natural starter (like a sourdough starter), and contain no additives, unlike conventional wines. In some varieties of natural wines, expect thicker legs, and maybe a brighter orange hue than you've seen before.

When questioned about the price point, Stratton said, "People don't get upset paying a 300% markup on a bottle of wine. A $20 bottle here could be $80 at another restaurant. We may undercharge for food. I think we price appropriately. Your ticket is reasonable. That middle-range restaurant is missing from Austin."

Don't forget coffee (Photo by John Anderson)

Three caveats for Golden Hour: They don't take reservations. Menchaca is a Texas Department of Transportation road and has strict signage laws, so use GPS to guide you as there's not much to keep your eyes peeled for when the speed limit is 45 mph. Finally, when experiencing sticker shock, think about how you want to feel after you eat, and embrace the small-plate concept. You may be surprised at how good it feels.

Golden Hour