Restaurant Review: Restaurant Review

Hank's Garage

115 San Jacinto, Ste. A, 512/520-8060, http://www.hanksgarageatx.com/
Mon.-Wed., 11am-12am; Thu.-Fri., 11am-2am; Sat., 10am-2am; Sun., 10am-12mid

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Photo by John Anderson

Hank's Garage

Gastropubs are in these days. And what's not to like? It's event dining all cozied up with dark paneling, craft beers, and chef-prepared comfort cuisine. Austin's newest gastropub is Hank's Garage – so named because it is, in fact, in a former garage. With more than 40 varieties of beer, clever mixed cocktails, and a well-crafted, meat-and-potatoes-based menu, it checks all the gastropub boxes.

Nonetheless, while the components are there, there's something about Hank's that is not quite finished. The main space, for instance, is cavernous and noisy – all hard surfaces, TVs, and beer signs – not unlike a sports bar, but with good beer. Then there are these quirky side rooms featuring plush upholstered chairs, sofas, and crystal chandeliers that feel more like a living room or an elegant dining room. The space feels disjointed and cobbled together.

The same feel applies to the food: While generally quite good, it, too, lacks thematic unity. The menu claims a Belgian influence, which to my mind is generally code for french fries. And in this respect, the kitchen lives up to its promise with some of the best Belgian frites in town ($3.50, regular; $6, large). Hank's fries are fat and dark gold with soft, starchy interiors. They can be ordered fried in regular oil or duck fat ($1.50 extra). We tried them side by side, and while both are exceptionally delicious, the duck fat fries don't taste substantially different from the regular fries, so save the buck fifty and the triple bypass; just go for regular. Belgian fries are usually served with mayonnaise, and Hank's delivers the goods here with a choice of mayos in playful flavors ranging from smoked paprika to Sriracha chili sauce. Hank's completes its global tour de frites with an assortment of poutines ($7-$8). This Québécoise comfort food involves French fries topped with cheese curds and then smothered in brown gravy. Hank's respects the traditional preparation, but also mixes it up with Indian masala, mushrooms, or cheese sauce.

Fries aren't the only snacks worth nibbling at Hank's Garage. Belgian influence aside, the food is essentially crowd-pleasing pub grub that includes English, French, Canadian, and American cafe favorites. Chef/owner Jeffrey Kuhn aptly describes his style as "more gourmand than gourmet." Plates are hearty; portions are ample.

We sampled a particularly well-flavored steak, seared and caramelized on the outside, perfectly medium rare inside ($16). And we fell in love with Hank's steamed mussels in tomato broth scented with saffron and a jot of curry ($13). The mussels were plump, and the broth was plentiful. The shepherd's pie ($12) was an enormous plate of slow-cooked lamb stew, complex and savory. It almost won us over unconditionally but for the slightly bland mashed potato topping.

I'd put Hank's lobster club ($12) and Croque Monsieur ($8) in the "just OK" category. While both were tasty, they both suffered from an overly liberal use of brioche. I found myself picking thick slices of it away to get to the understated yet excellent paprika-tinged lobster salad in the lobster club. As for the Croque Monsieur, a good Croque Monsieur is almost like a savory French toast; it typically involves brushing the bread with béchamel sauce and then broiling the sandwich with ham and cheese. Hank's version was more like a ham and melted cheese sandwich made from overlarge layers of dry bread. It wasn't bad; it just felt lazy.

During the two times we visited, the restaurant was about half full, and the waitstaff seemed underemployed. As a result, perhaps, the timing was off. Food was slow to come out of the kitchen, and on one occasion, we found ourselves looking for the waiter to pay our bill. Small service blunders generally aren't deal-killers for me, especially when a kitchen puts out decent food. But this awkwardness underscored a larger incongruity for me: Hank's Garage isn't sure yet what it wants to be. Is it a garage-y sports bar or an upscale pub? Does it serve Belgian cuisine or more globally influenced pub-based food? Put simply, this pleasant, self-styled gastropub could use a little polish on its cozy finish.