Piedras Negras Taqueria #2

Piedras Negras Taqueria #2

Northwest corner of East Cesar Chavez and Pleasant Valley
Daily, 7am-3am (or later)

Whatever happened to Taqueria Piedras #1, you ask? It burned to the ground, but don't feel sad, because #2 has been roosting on this bustling corner of East Austin for the last six years. Judging by the names on the official documents posted in the window, we can only conclude that the Ibarra family is heavily involved in the trailer's operation. Neither Adelita nor Jaqueline Ibarra ever called me back to answer my questions, and the staff was more than a little evasive when queried on-site (hey, I'm usually a little skittish around nosy guys with clipboards too), so some things about #2 will have to remain mysterious.

Whoever the culinary brains of the operation, they have learned their craft well. We can only assume that the name Piedras Negras is an homage to that famous border town in Coahuila, Mexico, which sits across from Eagle Pass. Cattle is king both in Coahuila and on the menu at #2, and flour tortillas dominate.

We have tried almost all of the offerings, eaten as tacos priced at $2 each (cash only; you can enjoy them as chalupas, tortas, or gorditas as well). The al pastor is pork slices with a nicely charred outside and a moist, citrusy, mild-chile-and-garlic-kissed interior. Carnitas are very popular here: chunks of golden brown porky goodness that melt in your mouth. The al carbon is tender slices of smoky beef, seasoned with chile and garlic.

The barbacoa is superb, finely shredded, and rich and flavorful, with just enough fat to keep it moist. The carne guisado is a medium-colored stew of tender chunks of beef, the other ingredients having melted into the thick, yummy sauce. And the fajitas are slices of robustly seasoned beef with just a bit of smoky char and remnants of onion and pepper. Piedras Negras' chicken fajitas (a capital crime to all fajita purists since the term refers to the breast meat of a cow, I know) are excellent; the thick slices are unfailingly tender and nicely seasoned from the marinade.

I saved the fajita gordita ($3) for last. I watched as they patted out the masa to form a disc about 7 or 8 inches across. Deep fry it and cut it in half, smear both sides with some tasty pinto beans, pile it high with fajita meat, top that with cheese and shredded lettuce, and you end up with a massive sandwich that only a big appetite can finish. You might consider getting it cut in half. The only meats I have not tried are the lengua (tongue) and the chicharron (fried and simmered pork skin). With both, it's a texture thing for me.

When asked if you want your tacos "all the way," say yes, but also request onions and cilantro, because sometimes "all the way" means some shredded lettuce only. Whatever you do, insist on the green sauce. It looks creamy, and you'd swear that there is avocado in it, but no. Green chiles, garlic, a little salt, and some oil drizzled into a blender; think emulsified spicy jalapeño vinaigrette.

There are a couple of picnic tables for alfresco dining under the big trees out back and enough parking for six to eight cars or so. The hours of operation are certainly accommodating, the prices are reasonable, and the tacos are stuffed full of tasty meats. Sitting at one of those back tables with a delicious Piedras Negras taco or three, an icy Mexican Coca-Cola, while you're watching one of the most interesting corners in town? That is an hour or so that's hard to beat.