Irish Pubs on the Event Menu

The SXSW juggernaut falls just at the right time each year to dim people's appreciation of the great St. Patrick's Day events around town. That makes real aficionados happy: They don't have to share as much space or worry about the Guinness running out. The good news is those of us who love all things Celtic are in for a rollicking good time this weekend.

If 17 is your lucky number, you might want to pick the Dog and Duck Pub (406 W. 17th, 479-0598). On March 17, they'll be having their 17th annual St. Patrick's Day Celebration at their location on 17th street. All those 17s add up to a big party, including 12 straight hours of music starting at 11am, family-friendly fun, and lots of Guinness and Harp on tap. Though patterned after an English pub, the Dog and Duck's soul is Irish. Even a cry of "Up the Republic" won't cause a stir. When you're hungry, order the Ploughman's Lunch.

The place I always head to first after returning from a trip to Ireland is B.D. Riley's (204 E. Sixth, 494-1335). It feels like walking in a pub in a little town like Kinsale or Dingle. These folks are obsessive about their beers. It's fresh, at the precise temperature recommended by each beer's brewmaster, and served in glasses that have never seen any liquid but beer. Everything is available by the imperial pint, and Guinness lovers will feel right at home when they see the care lavished on each pour. Plus, I've said it before, and I'll say it again: B.D. Riley's has the best fish and chips I've had outside the UK. On St. Patrick's Day, there'll be music from 2pm until closing. Drop in on the afternoon of March 16 and get a chance to hear nine Irish bands that will be playing SXSW on March 17.

The perfect mash-up of Irish warmth and Austin weird is at Opal Divine's (700 W. Sixth, 477-3308, plus two other locations). They'll be staying open until 4am on St. Patty's, so if you could use a late bit of food to sustain you, this is the place. It also has one of the best bars in the city, with carefully made drinks using pure and fresh ingredients (try the margarita made with agave nectar). The real secret is upstairs, where you'll find one of the best collections of whiskey on Earth. The service is great, and the food is exceptional pub grub.

Fadó Irish Pub (214 W. Fourth, 457-0172) has a Disneyland approach to the Celtic life. You wouldn't be surprised to see someone dressed as Darby O'Gill telling stories in the corner. They take their beer and whiskey seriously, and though the food is a little variable, we've always had great luck asking the server for advice. St. Patrick's Day starts early with a celebration of the "Super Saturday," the Round Five of Nations Rugby. Ireland plays Italy at 7:30am, Scotland plays France at 9:30am, and England plays Wales at 11:30am. During these rugby matches at Fadó, you're likely to see the largest number of Europeans and Europhiles at any single place in Austin.

Mother Egan's (715 W. Sixth, 478-7747) is best known for its Tuesday night mob scene for trivial pursuits, but when it first opened, the owners, a couple of Irishmen, set out to bring Irish hospitality and tradition to Central Texas. On Saturday, they'll have music and demonstration dancing from noon until midnight. Given its proximity to Opal Divine's, you can easily get a double bang for your parking buck.

Finally, if you want to go somewhere where there's no food and no faux-Irish decor, consider Bull McCabe's (714 Red River, 478-4022). This is the place in Austin you're most likely to hear real Irish accents from both the workers and the patrons. In nontouristy areas of Ireland, you'll find a load of places like Bull McCabe's. It's never too crowded, and there's always a pleasant hum from the drinkers. Traditional Irish music plays in the background and an old TV provides the entertainment. The pours are honest and correct. The reason to be here is the same as a pub in Ireland: to enjoy the simple pleasures of conversation with a little alcoholic lubrication to keep things interesting.

By the way, if you are not a fan of the richness of Guinness, try Smithwick's (pronounced SMITH-icks). It's a perfectly delicious pale ale made by the brewmaster at Guinness. All of the places listed carry it on tap.