Ben's Longbranch BBQ

Photo By John Anderson

Ben's Longbranch BBQ

Monday-Thursday, 10:30am-4pm; Friday-Saturday, 10:30am-11pm

Thirty-three years ago, Ben Wash opened the original Ben's Longbranch in the Montopolis area. In 1981, he moved it to the current prime location (one block east of I-35, just past the entrance to the newly renovated 11th). In 2002, he leased the operation to investors, but two months ago, after a series of miscues by the group, he took back control of his pride and joy. Ben's welcoming-greeting-big smile and positive outlook are once again drawing in the folks from the neighborhood and the throngs of smoked-meat faithful.

Ben has two large rotisserie-action smokers fueled primarily by oak, using a tad of pecan and hickory woods. The restaurant is counter-style ordering, with seating both inside and on the deck that overlooks the large parking lot in back. The decor is funky and relaxed, and the silverware plastic, but you come to Ben's for the fantastic Texas barbecue.

He produces the best mutton ($5.99/lb.) that you can find in these parts. It's a meat that most places don't carry, but one that has deep historical roots. Here you get mutton that has been properly smoked to extract the fat, flavor the rich meat with a deep smoke ring, and still leave it plastic-fork tender. Ben's pork ribs ($9.49/lb.) are a work of pit boss art: The simply but robustly seasoned meat almost slides off the bone, while the smoke ring's deep, and the flavor is above reproach.

The superb brisket ($8.99/lb.) at Ben's has a lean trim and fine marbling, a 1/4-inch smoke ring, great flavor, and it's so tender that a toothless baby could gum it. Pork butt ($6.99/lb.) has a hint of that perfect ham flavor with a deep smoke kiss and retains its juiciness. Chickens (whole: $7.50, half: $3.95) are moist, tender, spicy, and smoky. Ben uses Elgin hot links for his sausage: medium grind, a nice snap to the smoked casing, juicy without being greasy, and a nice, peppery finish.

You can get white bread or saltines with your meats, and there are four options for sides – available as part of a smoked-meat combo plate ($5.50 to $8.49) or stand-alone (99 cents, $1.90, $3.99). The slaw is coarsely chopped with a mayo-based sweet and sour dressing. The beans are outstandingly rich: cooked with chile powder and chunks of meat. The creamy potato salad has both mustard and mayo, with bits of onion and sour pickle, and the green beans are buttery and slightly overcooked in that yummy soul-food style. Ben's has bottomless fountain drinks, regular and sweet tea, lemonade, and a nice assortment of beers (for $2, with a happy hour soon to come).

If you can still hold anything after the onslaught, Ben's offers an unctuous banana pudding ($1.90) and a peach cobbler ($3.79) that rivals the one that Mrs. Owens made at the old Southern Dinette, which used to be right down the road. Ben provides catering for parties small and large and even delivers if the order is large enough

Ben's is one of our faves for city center barbecue, and when you go in you're going to be made to feel as if you're one of the family. The smoked meats are superbly cooked, the portions are large, and the prices are inexpensive when compared to the competition. With Ben back at the helm, 33 years of smoke master experience under his belt, and a big smile on his face, we know that you'll leave wanting to come back soon.