The Puffy Taco Invasion

Puffy Tacos (Photo By John Anderson)

Vivo Cocina Texicana

Friday-Saturday, 11am-11pm
When you add it all up, I might have consumed as many Mexican meals in San Antonio as I have in Austin. Although I didn't grow up in San Antonio, my mother is a native, and as a result my family made frequent excursions there from whatever point on the globe we resided. My parents retired to San Antonio while I was still in high school, and I even lived there for several months before moving to Austin. Between weekly visits home and family reunions, which always entailed Mexican food fixes, I've gained a respectable knowledge of the city's extensive offerings. In a city lousy with choices, the restaurant we visited most often was La Fiesta Patio Cafe on Pat Booker Road outside Randolph Air Force Base. My brother, a strict vegetarian and Mexican food enthusiast, turned us on to the place. My mother, a strict carnivore and Mexican food fiend, was immediately enamored of the place. It satisfied her lust for old-time chile/beef sauce while meeting my brother's requirements of no lard and brown rice. When I heard a rumor that a San Antonio restaurant with healthy inclinations had opened on Manor Road, my mom (who now resides here) and I had to check it out: Could this be a relative to our well-loved Fiesta?

One scoop of salsa confirmed our fervent wishes: Fiesta is here! There is no mistaking the smoky, garlicky sauce that is utterly addictive. A glance at the menu offered further, although now unnecessary evidence: puffy tacos. Long before Sean Combs became a media staple, puffy was where it was at at Fiesta, and they have made the migration north on I-35 to Vivo.

What has changed in the expansion (Fiesta is still open in San Antonio) is the ambience. The Manor Road spot is chic and casual and arty with a sun-dappled (or twinkly lit at night) deck furnished with sunburst wrought-iron chairs, a water-fountain wall that provides privacy and noise reduction as well as atmosphere, and tile-topped tables. Indoors, vibrant colors and even more vibrant art makes for a stylish setting. The restaurant has caught on quickly; it appeared to be bustling during both daytime and nighttime visits. My 11-year-old was not impressed though: She missed the enormous aquariums that provided diversion at the San Antonio location.

Vivo prides itself on using brown rice and canola oil and no lard, Velveeta, or MSG in its preparation. This doesn't make the food low-fat by any means: The tacos get puffy from their immersion in oil for crying out loud. But still, you gotta give them credit for taking Mexican food off the banned list and on to the "in moderation" category. You will not feel even the teeniest bit cheated, either: Gooey cheese enchiladas are a featured item, and refried beans accompany entrées throughout the menu.

The menu is not extensive. Puffy tacos with a variety of fillings, enchiladas, and few grilled items make up the main courses. It's filled out with tortilla soup, a couple of salads, and basic starters like nachos and queso. You can combine the choices in dozens of ways, which is the most popular way to go ($9.95-10.95). So far, we've tried the Chile Enchiladas ($7.95 with cheese, $8.95 with beef picadillo), the Chicken Enchiladas ($8.95), the Enchiladas Rojas ($9.50), and every variety of puffy taco ($7.95-8.95) in one plate or another. Not a loser in the bunch, but favorites varied by person. My mother and other devotees of classic Tex-Mex love the chile enchiladas. There is no substitution for the beef-studded sauce smothering cheese-filled corn tortillas on a finger-searing hot plate, which is exactly what you'll get in this version. The vegetarian sauce that tops the chicken enchiladas and the rojas sauce have their charms, although I find them surprisingly tame – especially when compared to the robust salsa. More successful in my book are the puffy tacos. These messy beauties are never greasy, and the puffed masa provides an exceptionally tasty conveyance for the well-seasoned fillings. The guacamole taco ($8.95) is a special vegetarian delight, with tofu providing some balance for the rich guacamole.

All plates come with their signature brown Spanish rice and canola refried beans, which isn't as radical of a departure from the standard variety as one might guess. The short grain rice is fluffy, chewy, and nicely seasoned with the nuttiness from the whole grain coming through. The beans may lack the denseness of the lard-fried version, but I consider that a plus with food as hearty as this.

The margarita options are wide and varied ($6.95-8.95) and include prickly pear, mango, and a version that includes olive juice (an unexpected winner for the martini lover at our table for $8.50). This was a welcome sight, as the San Antonio location offers only beer and wine, which was the primary reason we sometimes opted for other destinations. The usual suspects of beers (with the unusual option of a michelada), wines, and soft drinks are the other drink options. All of this is served with friendly and breezy, if not exactly exacting service.

With its San Antonio roots still firmly in place, Roger Diaz has successfully adapted his family's proven formula to suit Austin's style. And with open arms, Austin embraces and welcomes this South Central Texan to town. To paraphrase the King, Viva los Vivo.

– Barbara Chisholm