Surf and Turf, Travis-Style

Lakeside dining 2002: by boat or by car, bring your appetite

Big Dave's Dam Saloon and Restaurant

1113 N. RR 620, 266-2279

Monday-Wednesday, 11am-midnight; Thursday-Saturday, 11am-2am; Sunday, noon-midnight

Just south of Mansfield Dam on the land side of Ranch Road 620 is a place where the other half drink and dine near the lake. I'm not talkin' about the people who inhabit the multimillion-dollar affairs, with stunning views and heated pools. I'm talking about the folks who pour the slabs, frame the walls, and lay the masonry. Big Dave's Dam Saloon is working-class male to the core -- with classic rock on the jukebox and ample cigarette smoke curling up to the exposed A/C ducts overhead. The food is pretty much what you would expect from a bar called Big Dave's Dam Saloon -- a place where the primary decorative aesthetic features neon beer signs shining brightly above pool tables, beery babe posters, and other beer-related trinkets peddled by the major distributors. Hamburgers, tacos, fried catfish, nachos, chicken-fried steak, and a myriad of fried stuff dominate the menu. Don't expect much in the way of service. This is bar food, which means you order at the bar and pick it up there yourself. But don't let the roadhouse-style atmosphere intimidate you if you're hankering for a good American-style feed. The chow at Big Dave's is surprisingly good. The chicken-fried steak ($6.75), though a bit skimpy, is well-spiced and freshly breaded; the chili-cheeseburger ($6.50) comes with a large, homemade beef patty and toasted bun; and the french fries are freshly cut. The catfish ($6.50) is fresh, and the fried okra is crispy. Big Dave's regularly features live music. Don't miss Smokehouse on Sunday afternoons.

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