Cafe Bleu

Cafe Bleu (Photo By John Anderson)

Cafe Bleu

Mon-Fri, 4pm-midnight; Sat-Sun, noon-1am; live music, Thu-Sat

Cafe Bleu has been generating talk all summer. Longtime Austin restaurant regular Jeff Currington and his partners have created a Mediterranean getaway on the northeast shores of Lake Travis, and it's very much worth a visit. That's a good thing because reaching Cafe Bleu from Austin involves quite a trek. Whether you approach the new spot by boat or car, wear cool, comfortable clothing, plenty of sunblock, and very good sunglasses. The reasons will soon become apparent. Once you've arrived at the Sandy Creek Yacht Club parking lot, take the wide, natural steps winding down the hill toward the cafe and the water. (There's also a lift if you can't do the steps.) Cafe Bleu's kitchen is located in a cobalt blue building that faces directly into the west sun. Though covered with awnings designed to withstand the wind, the entire dining area is open to the elements and as the day progresses, the awnings provide little shelter from the blazing Texas sun. Once the sun sets, however, the breeze comes up, twinkling candles are lit, and it's pure relaxation.

Observing the expensive boats and beautiful people tied up at the Yacht Club marina, you'd almost be sure this was the Riviera rather than homey old Lake Travis. The beautiful lake crowd has discovered and embraced Cafe Bleu along with in-the-know Austinites who are drawn to the European ambience, the live music booked by Stephen Doster, and the hearty, robust fare presented by Currington, Scott Dishman, and their talented crew of cooks. The menu features dishes inspired by the cuisines of Italy, Spain, Morocco, and Greece with appetizers ranging in price from $5-$10 and entrées from $9-$24. The affordability of the menus and the excellent wine list (see "Liquid Assets") make this a great place to nosh with a hungry crowd. Members of the cafe staff operate an organic garden which currently supplies the kitchen with fresh tomatoes, peppers, herbs, and summer vegetables and will provide greens, spinach, and other vegetables in cooler months.

The food I've sampled from Cafe Bleu is hearty and full of interesting flavors. Start with a Mezze Platter ($7), a bargain that boasts servings of hummus, baba ganoush, roasted tomatoes, Mediterranean olives, and a tasty mixture of Tuscan white beans and avocado chunks with fresh pita triangles for dipping. The excellent Brochettes of Lamb & Beef ($9) are tender strips of perfectly cooked meat, sprinkled with sesame seeds and served with a divinely garlicky aioli. The hearty Tagine of Lamb ($13) is flavored with artichoke hearts, apricots, and vegetables, arriving on a bed of couscous that has soaked up delicious cooking juices. One of the most frequently ordered dishes is a Halibut fillet ($20) encrusted with pistachios and served over a bright citrus couscous with garden-fresh squash caponata and a sherry garlic butter sauce. One bite of the firm, flaky fish and its tasty components and the reason for its popularity becomes apparent. It's a very satisfying dish.

I've been told the original plans for Cafe Bleu called for the business to close during the most inclement months of the year. However, a staff member mentioned to me last week that the already regular clientele was urging the owners to consider year-round service. It will be interesting to see whether or not it's possible to maintain the cafe's unique open-air waterside ambience on cold winter days, but the innovative team that conceived this delightful place may just figure it out. In the meantime, cooler weather won't be here for a while, so remember our admonition about cool clothes and dark sunglasses and make a Mediterranean excursion to Cafe Bleu.