Potluck at the Pedernales

Golden Creamed Onions (Photo By John Anderson)

Golden Creamed Onions

How long has creamed onions been on the menu in our household? For as long as I can remember. For a while they were a somewhat glutinous mess made with a traditional cream and flour sauce, but this simpler version is far tastier and easier.

3 lbs pearl onions, blanched in boiling water 2 minutes, drained, and peeled (the peeling is the tedious part of this dish; wait until the onions are cool enough to handle, then start with the root end. Watching a video on the tube helps.)

2 tbsp unsalted butter

1 tsp sugar

3/4 tsp salt

2/3 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley

In a skillet large enough to hold the onions in a single layer (or two if necessary), combine onions, sugar, salt, and enough water to cover the onions by a 1/2-inch and bring mixture to boil. Boil until the liquid is almost evaporated and continue cooking, swirling pan, until the onions are golden and they begin to brown. Add the cream and continue swirling pan until cream thickens and colors (about 2 minutes). Stir in parsley, season with salt and pepper. This dish can be prepared a day or even more in advance and can be reheated in a microwave, a skillet over low heat, or in a slow oven.

Wes Marshall's Recommended Wine: 1999 David Wynn Shiraz, $13.99

Onions are difficult to match with wine. Most wines just don't work. Shiraz is one that does. David Wynn's Shiraz is completely un-oaked, so the flavor comes solely from the fruit. Something magical happens in this combination, an unexpected synergy. The sweetness of the onions and the fruitiness of the wine collaborate flawlessly.