Mini-Review

Tâm Deli & Cafe

Mon-Sun, 10am-8pm

Tâm quietly emerged onto the Vietnamese food scene of North Lamar's Little Vietnam last July and through word of mouth quickly established a loyal following. It is situated in the Centre North strip center several blocks north of Research on the west side of the street. The space at tâm is long and narrow, with a bright, folksy feel. The effervescent friendliness of the staff only adds to the warm welcome that you'll get when you enter.

The menu covers a wide range of Viet taste treats, including some rather unique food finds. We loved our order of Shrimp and Shredded Yam Cakes ($3.25) -- three light and crunchy fritters that make a perfect savory starter. Not to be missed is the Fried Tofu Stuffed with Shrimp Paste ($3.50), golden brown tofu morsels with an explosion of shrimp in the middle. Both of these appetizers are rare menu finds in Austin. For the less daring, tâm serves excellent fresh spring rolls ($1.99), which are bursting with shrimp and pork.

The popularity of Vietnamese sandwiches continues to grow as more folks in Austin discover the freshness and affordability of these stuffed French bread subs. tâm's versions are up there with the best of them, especially the roasted chicken ($2) and the shrimp ($3) varieties. The bread has a thin, crunchy crust and a moist middle stuffed with crispy veggies and meat. These subs stand heads above the standard chain sub, and tower over the greasy burger that costs twice as much.

Soups at tâm are excellent, and the chefs understand the importance of a rich, full-bodied stock when it's paired with a bland ingredient like rice noodles. The Hot and Spicy Hue Beef Soup ($4.99) is superbly aromatic, and tastes as good as it smells. We had to try the Crab Meat and Shrimp Paste Soup ($4.50), and once we got over the look of the surreal clouds of submerged shrimp mousse and dug in, our spoons never stopped until the bowl was empty.

The kitchen at tâm puts out a superior version of bún (vermicelli bowls, $4.25-5.50) in a wide range of meat options, and their bánh cuon (steamed rice cake wraps, $4.25-4.99) are the best around. The name is misleading, since they resemble large ravioli made from spring roll skins that are stuffed with a wide choice of fillings, then steamed. We sampled the ground pork, black mushroom, and pork roll version, and couldn't have been happier with the light and slippery rice pasta enveloping earthy mushroom and porcine goodness.

We haven't yet gotten to any of the egg noodle varieties of soups and stir-fries, or the steamed rice platters, since they are on the last page of the menu. But if the aroma of the curried chicken rice platter that wafted by on its way to a neighboring table is any indication, we must press on. And for the curious vegans out there, all menu items are available as vegetarian dishes; Miss Lan's Special Lo Mein with Tofu and Veggies ($4.75) sounds mighty tempting.

tâm surprised us with its dessert offerings. A very passable flan for $1 and French cream puffs for 50 cents! Grilled Banana wrapped in Sweet Rice (2 for $2.29) and Jellied Bean Curd with Ginger Syrup ($1.29) right next to slabs of Black Forest Cake! We could have been dreaming, but swear they were there -- and at those prices!

tâm can be a bit crowded during the rush hour, but if forced to wait, just keep thinking about how good the food will be, how great the prices are, and the efficient and friendly way you'll be treated when your table comes up. Put tâm at the top of your must-try Vietnamese list -- you'll be glad we told you to.