Second Helpings: Austin Barbecue

3. Cross-Town Bar-B-Q

211 Central Ave., Elgin, 281-5594

Thu and Sun, 10am-8pm; Fri-Sat, 10am-11pm

For the past 12 years, Cross-Town has been doing business in an unassuming little downtown building that you might miss if you hadn't been told to look for it. After a couple of visits, our advice is this: If you prefer your barbecue down-home, greasy, and full of flavor, this is your joint. Partners Carol Grady and Larry Morgan make their own spectacular all-beef sausage and smoke everything from brisket to pork ribs to mutton over a slow oak fire. It's all good and the sausage is great. This is old-time, deep South, eat-with-your-fingers-and-make-a-greasy-mess-style meal you won't soon forget.