Celebrating Beaujolais Nouveau
Fri., Nov. 13, 1998
The lore of Beaujolais Nouveau's one-day journey is more charm than truth, but wine merchants will refrain from selling these wines until Thursday as a tribute to the celebration of the spontaneity and youthful character of these wines. Unlike most red wines, which are allowed to sit in a winery cellar to soften and improve, Beaujolais Nouveau is bottled almost immediately after it has finished fermenting. This modest wine began as a regional phenomenon, initially made to serve in local bars and restaurants while the better wines made in Beaujolais improved in the estates' cellars. Then, in 1951, the French government removed laws limiting the distribution of Beaujolais Nouveau, and the wine spread throughout France. Soon enough, Duboeuf and other Beaujolais producers were touting the release day as a festival to celebrate the vintage. They even changed the date of this wine's release to the third Thursday of November. (Conspicuously anchored to the weekend, don't you think?) All the better for them; selling this wine at an early age saves valuable cellar space and gives the estate an almost instant cash return on their crop. So thanks to clever marketing, Beaujolais Nouveau, like Bud Bowl, is a tradition that we as consumers can look forward to every year.
Okay, so it's not just marketing. Beaujolais Nouveau does have a lively, unpolished appeal all its own. Served slightly chilled, it can be delightful. Its strong perfume and youthful, berry-like flavors are suitable for any Disney-esque Bacchanalian celebration. Easy to drink and straightforward, Beaujolais Nouveau repels scrutiny by the wine savvy and draws the wine illiterate in for a belly-full. But mostly, the appeal is in waiting for the annual release, the anticipation of the celebration. The best part is knowing that when you walk into a restaurant and, like Steve Martin in The Jerk, demand that the waiter bring you a "new" wine, someone in France, New Zealand, or Japan is doing the same thing.
So how are you going to celebrate the arrival of Beaujolais Nouveau this year? You have several choices. Central Market is featuring Beaujolais Nouveau in its next wine tasting on Friday, November 20. The cost is $35 per person. Or you can sponsor your own tasting; invite friends to bring food and celebrate the occasion with you. There are several Beaujolais Nouveau to choose from: DuBoeuf, Jafflin, Chermett, Drouhin, Bouchard, and Chateau de Buffavent are some available around town. On average, they cost about $8 a bottle. Ask your retailer which he or she suggests.
Another great way to celebrate the arrival of Beaujolais Nouveau is to visit Jean-Luc's Bistro downtown, which features a three-course meal for this occasion every year. Call November 15 for reservations. On the other hand, you can always serve Beaujolais Nouveau with food at home. Some say it is great with Thanksgiving dinner. But to me, these wines beg to be served jug-style with light cheeses and simple chicken- or white bean-based soups, stews, and pastas, accompanied by hunks of French country bread, washing the food down with big swills of the wine. That may sound gluttonous, but what the heck, it's a celebration. -- Anthony King
