Dim Summing it Up: Tips for Beginners

Travel in Trios -- Most dim sum portions are arranged around the number three (three cakes, three dumplings, etc.) according to Cantonese "lucky number" customs. Dim sum expeditions, then, are best mounted by groups of three or multiples of three. Parties of four or two should be prepared to haggle over the more popular dishes.

Grab a Cheat Sheet -- Most dim sum restaurants provide a list noting the different dishes with their Chinese translations. These handy sheets are usually available near the cash register and can provide valuable context as the trays pass.

Watch the Parade Route -- Dim sum carts often follow a fixed path around the dining room, so dedicate the first few minutes to observing their route. Discerning your meal's migratory pattern will help you plan selections a bit ahead of time.

Post a Guard -- It never hurts to have an extra pair of eyes roaming the hall, so assign one of your group the job of watchdog. This sentry keeps other diners informed about incoming carts, checks out intriguing dishes on neighboring tables, and flags down passing waitstaff. Choose the member of your party least likely to be ignored by bartenders.

Pace Yourself -- The key to a tea breakfast is a leisurely pace, so likewise resist the temptation with dim sum to load your table from the first cart that arrives. Start with one or two dishes and let the meal unfold with each passing selection. Contrary to popular wisdom about Chinese food, dim sum's hearty little tidbits add up quickly, and you'll be beyond full before you know what hit you.

Experiment -- The extensive list of traditional dim sum favorites caters to the Asian palate and will includes options like shark fin dumplings and sautéed tripe with turnips. Consider it your chance to expand your culinary horizons a few small bites at a time. Even if you usually take your poultry skinless and boneless, order the steamed chicken feet for a textural taste of where the yardbird meets the road.

Jockey for the Kitchen Seats -- The best seats in the house are the ones closest to the swinging galley doors. The closer you are to the prep area, the fresher and larger your possible selection.

Order From the Cheat Sheet -- If your favorite dumpling or pudding routinely disappears before its cart arrives at your table, request the item by name or description. Circle the item on the handy cheat sheet and your special order usually arrives within minutes. -- P.J.