With three upsets out of four quarterfinal games (well, depending on who you listened to coming in), this is not the set of semifinals most anyone expected. But it promises to be a great pair of games. As for the suggested menus, as we eat our way through the WC schedule, it's basically breads, cheeses, meats, beer, and wine. But who does those better than France, Italy, and Germany? Portugal's kind of the odd country out at the table as well as on the field, but, just in time for the big games, Portugal found their game, and I found a very nice recipe for fried codfish-and-potato balls. Very exciting.

Tuesday, 1:55pm: Germany-Italy.
This is a rematch of a March "friendly" that Italy dominated, 4-1, with only a late German face-saver bringing it that close. After that game, played in Florence, German fans were calling for head coach Juergen Klinsmann's head. But now we're in the fatherland, Klinsmann's a genius, and Germany's a 2-1 favorite. Maybe so, but for my money Italy's still a better team. We shall see.
There was bad news for the hosts on Monday: midfielder Torsten Frings, who's been having a great tournament, has been ruled out of the semifinal, suspended for throwing a punch during a post-game dustup with the Argentinian team and staff. Key defender Alessandro Nesta (groin) is still iffy for Italy, but they'll have Marco Materazzi back from his red-card suspension if Nesta's not ready to go.
Menu: German black bread, with various cheeses and sausages, and a Bitburger (or maybe a Dortmunder Union, since that's where the game's being played); or Pane Rustica with prosciutto & salami antipasto; fresh mozzarella, mascarpone, and other cheeses; cornetti; espresso; Peroni; vino rosso.

Wednesday, 1:55pm: France-Portugal.
This has the makings of a classic: two very, very good teams, who no one thought were going to make it this far. Two attractive, attacking styles of play, as well, and some good individual matchups, too. Both sides will be at full strength, as Portugal gets Deco and Costinha back from red-card suspensions.
Menu: Croissants and baguettes, with fromage & pates; a couple of nice Portuguese cheeses; various fish products; and a new find from the quarterfinals: Pastéis de Bacalhau (Codfish Pastries); thanks to Sofia Resnick and Michael Schwarz for the idea and recipe. Vin and vinho, verde, blanc, et rouge. Benedictine or port to finish, depending on who wins.

Down go the pre-tournament favorites. Down go the favorites coming out of the first round. And suddenly, we've got all-European semifinals.

Germany 1, Argentina 1 (4-2 in PK shootout)
It's always disappointing to see a game decided on penalty kicks, but for the most part, the marquee matchup of the round lived up to its billing: hard-fought (but remarkably clean, until after the final whistle), tense, and emotional. German keeper Jens Lehmann guessed right on every Argentine PK in the shootout, saved two, and that was about the extent of the difference between these two squads on the day.

Italy 3, Ukraine 0
The scoreline is flattering to the Italians – Ukraine had at least two balls off the woodwork, and two others cleared off the goal line – but Italy controlled the game pretty handily for the most part, and looked good enough to perhaps go all the way. It's certainly encouraging for them to get striker Luca Toni untracked; his two second-half goals were his first of the tournament, though he's played well throughout. And Francesco Totti looked comfortable playing 90 minutes, and had beautiful assists on the first two goals.

Portugal 0, England 0 (3-1 in PK shootout)
The first stunner of the day wasn't really much of a surprise, given how these teams have been playing. England actually looked better here than they had all tournament, even after Beckham went out with an injury and Rooney stomped off. They survived the overtime, on a hot afternoon, on pretty much even terms. Portugal is being tabbed as the upstart outsider; don't believe it. They may not have won any major championships yet, but they've been knocking on the door for a decade, and they were the favorites to win the Euro championships just two years ago.

France 1, Brazil 0
Stunning, not so much because the old guys, all but written off a couple of weeks ago, extended their recent mastery over the consensus best team in the world, but because of how easy they made it look. France dominated the midfield, won most every free ball, and shut down every attack. Brazil didn't manage a single shot on goal until the 80th minute. Thierry Henri's gorgeous volley in the 57th minute joins Maxi Rodriguez's stunner against Mexico as the top goals of the tournament.

Here's a look at the games in the next couple of days (Friday-Saturday, June 30 and July 1), plus suggested breakfast menus.

Friday:
9:45am: Germany-Argentina. These two would probably be favored to go to the finals if they weren't in the same quarter of the bracket; the winner becomes the favorite to win it all.
Menu: Apfelpfannkuchen (apple pancakes), cheese and sausage plate; fruit, Yerba Mate, submarinos (bittersweet chocolate melted into steamed milk). An excellent game to drink beer with: Quilmes from Argentina; any of dozens from Germany.

1:45pm: Italy-Ukraine. On paper, this is something of a breather for Italy; but they looked anything but comfortable in a pre-tournament scoreless tie with the Ukraine. Italy will be missing defenders Alessandro Nesta (groin) and Marco Materazzi (red card), plus midfielder Daniele DeRossi, suspended four games for his elbow on Brian McBride. For Ukraine, striker Andriy Voronin is out for the rest of the tournament, putting all the focus on Andrij Shevchenko, longtime AC Milan star leaving Italy this off-season for the Premiership.
Menu: Breads & cheeses, prosciutto & salami, fresh mozzarella, cornetti and other pastries, espresso, Peroni & vino rosso.

Saturday:
9:45am: England-Portugal. First big test for an English side that has looked anything but impressive so far. They don't look fit to play another afternoon game; heaven help them if it goes to overtime. Portugal, on the other hand, looks ready to atone for their failure in the 2004 Euro championships, though they'll miss the creativity in the midfield from Deco, one of the two red-carded players from the Dutch game.
Menu: This could be the best cheese plate of the entire tournament; that's a given for England, but there's also some very nice Portuguese soft sheep's cheese. Plus of course, bangers, crumpets, jams, tea and strong coffee; nice ale selection, plus some English hard cider, and port.

1:45pm: Brazil-France. Rematch of the 1998 championship game; both sides say there's no revenge factor involved, but don't believe it. Should be a good one. Menu: Still working on this one a little. Croissants, of course, plus a fromage & pate plate; tropical fruits for Brazilian breakfast, but we could perhaps shade it more toward lunch, given the time of day. I'm having trouble finding more Xingu (Brazilian black beer), and Central Market is out of the Alsatian beer they used to stock. So, we shall see. And of course, there's always Cachaca and Cashew juice. Or Benedictine, if you prefer.

Who can tell why, but the pattern of one great game a day, and one disappointing one, held throughout the first knockout round. Italy and Brazil went through as expected, but in contrasting styles, and the best game of the tournament so far was saved for last.

Monday:

Italy squeaked by Australia, 1-0, on a disputed penalty on literally the last touch of the ball, four minutes into extra time. Leave it to the Italians to pile on the drama. (Oh, did I mention they were playing a man down almost the entire second half?)
So, speaking of dramatics, was the controversial penalty call a dive? Probably. But it was also a foul. Perhaps unintentional, but clear, inside the box, on a player going toward goal with the ball. That's a call the referee has to make. Still, the Sockeroos can justifiably feel betrayed by fortune, if not by the ref; they played almost well enough to win, controlled possession, but couldn't quite get the final pass through, or shot on target. Speaking of which …

Ukraine outlasted Switzerland in penalty kicks in the afternoon game; and if Australia lacked the final touch, here were two teams who looked like they didn't have any clue how to go about creating an attack. For once, it was a relief when the game went to a penalty kick shootout, because you got the feeling these guys could've played for hours longer without creating any scoring chances. Hell, Switzerland couldn't even score in the shootout, losing 3-0, and exiting the tournament without allowing a single goal. Surely that's some sort of record for offensive futility?

Tuesday:

Brazil dispatched Ghana by a methodical 3-0, and as a contest it was about that one-sided. But the scoreline doesn't reflect a couple of realities: Ghana had the best of the possession, and actually won most of the midfield battles, only to be undone (like Australia) by poor finishing, time and time again. But for a few flashes of counterattacking brilliance, the Samba hardly looked like the big pre-tournament favorite they were hyped to be. Still, the coaches all stress that for Brazil, it's a seven-game tournament; no point peaking early. And I suppose if I'm grousing about the quality of their 11th straight WC win, – and a 3-0 win at that – they must be doing something right. In the same vein, how about that Ronaldo? Old, fat, slow … seems like nowadays all he can do is score game-winning goals. What a bum!

France ousted Spain, 3-1, in the last game of the round – clearly the best-played, most competitive game of the tournament so far, pitting two teams with very high expectations, as well as big chips on their shoulders. For France, this WC is the last stand of a generation – Zidane, Thuram, Barthez, et al. – who won it all in 1998 and 2000, then got swept out of the 2002 WC with three losses and no goals. For the Spaniards – who have famously never advanced past the quarterfinals despite almost always being among the favorites – it was another bitter disappointment; they'll be little cheered by the promise shown by this very young team, or by the fact that they played such fine, smart, inventive, attacking football … and still fell just barely short. No moral victory here.

So, now it's on to the quarterfinals, Friday and Saturday. More on that soon.

A couple of crackling games on the afternoons, and a couple of relative duds each morning: Saturday: Germany looked very strong, very comfortable, in taking out Sweden, 2-0. But it's hard to tell, really, how good they are; they scored twice in the first 12 minutes, and then effectively killed the game; the Swedes never really challenged, especially going a man down with 10 minutes to go in the first half. Argentina, on the other hand, looked vulnerable for the first time in the tournament, leaving it late before pulling out a 2-1 overtime thriller over Mexico – on the best goal of the fortnight, Maxi Rodriguez's perfect volley from the corner of the box, into the opposite top corner of the goal: a 40-yard pass, chest, to foot, to goal. Bang. Mexico, you're dead. So it's Argentina-Germany on Friday in Berlin. Still looking like the two best teams in the world, but how good are they? Sunday: England advanced over Ecuador, as expected, behind a gorgeous David Beckham free kick in the 60th minute. This did not, however, look like a confident team – or a good one, for that matter. Especially not a fit one. Becks was throwing up on the field for most of the second half, and the entire team looked absolutely gassed by the finish. Fortunately for them, Ecuador seemed inexplicably content to settle for the 1-0 loss, so England move on. Unfortunately for them, their next game, against Portugal on Saturday, is another afternoon game. If they somehow manage to push it into overtime, I seriously worry for the lads. Someone's going to die out there. Portugal ousted Holland in the late game, and if Argentina-Mexico was the best-played game of the weekend, this was the most competitive. Russian referee Valentin Ivanov handed out an astounding 20 cards, including four reds (two to each team), but his meltdown somehow didn't hurt the game any; these were two top-quality squads, battling 90 minutes. Great stuff.

Here are the Round of 16 matchups, along with menus for the WC Breakfasts I'm hosting at my house. Drop by! Saturday:
10am: Germany-Sweden. The hosts will be favored, but Sweden is dangerous. Cheeses and sausage of course, and perhaps dueling pancakes; apfelpfannkuchen were a crowd favorite in the first round, and I have some Swedish pancake mix.
2pm: Argentina-Mexico. Mexico got the draw nobody wanted; Argentina has been flat-out dominating at both ends of the field. Migas, perhaps menudo, yerba mate, Quilmes & Tecate, lots of fruit juices.
If things go as expected, this will be a killer quarterfinal next Friday. Sunday:
10am: England-Ecuador. Brits should take this one, but losing Michael Owen to a torn ACL will hurt them at the next level. Bangers and crumpets have become a standby, of course, as has the Wensleydale and other cheeses; good thing Ecuador advanced, because I never got a chance to try out the yucca and eggs in the first round.
2pm: Holland-Portugal. The Portuguese handled Mexico fairly easily while resting six of their best players, and the Dutch are always a treat. Pannenkuiken met poedersuiker, some rather nice Portuguese sheep's cheese and sardines. Monday:
10am: Italy-Australia. Italy has a huge talent edge; but scrappy Australia produced two of the best games of the first round. Foster's vs. Peroni. Spaghetti vs. Toast with spaghetti and baked beans. Vegemite vs. Mascarpone. What's not to like?
2pm: Switzerland-Ukraine. Two dark horses who've played very well (except for Ukraine's first-game horror-show). Cheeses, again, and a couple of other Swiss snacky things. Having a little trouble finding an appropriate beer, though. Tuesday:
10am: Brazil-Ghana. The last stand of the Fufu (barring the upset of the century), fried plantains, and otherwise I'm still working on the menu; Brazil has been the favorite beverage nation, though; try some Xingu beer, various juices, and most notable, Cachaca and Cashew juice.
2pm: Spain-France. Perhaps the biggest big-name matchup of the first round. Croissants, perhaps crepes, assorted toasts, and Benedictine, which has become the new tradition for the Francophiles in the crowd.

Rockstar Games, following its reign as cool-gaming king with the Grand Theft Auto series and the retro-hip Warriors, decides to lower the stakes with Table Tennis. Their latest release focuses less on style and lets the simple beauty of the sport shine. The players are rendered well without dropping any jaws, and the soundtrack sidesteps the unnecessary hit parade. Instead, Ping-Pong is allowed to be the quick-witted game of finesse that it is. The controls are easy to learn (the training mode takes about 10 minutes) and difficult to master (keeping track of the ball's spin puts quite a strain on the eyes), as they should be. Rockstar chooses an underrepresented sport and produces a respectable simulation. That's cool.

The debate over whether professional or collegiate sports is more exciting to watch lingers as a water-cooler topic and has no end in sight. Some argue that professional athletes are prima donnas who slack off once they've made their money and that college athletes play with hustle and all their heart. Others feel that college players have inferior skills and that, therefore, the quality of the game pales in comparison to the pros. While that argument stalemates, the battle between MVP 06: NCAA Baseball and MLB 06: The Show steps into the batters box.

The beauty of boxing is its simplicity. It's a sport of man vs. man with nothing but some barely forgiving gloves and only-somewhat concerting low-blow protection. This focus on the human form – one of the toughest challenges for game designers – makes boxing video games a struggle to perfect, kinda like trying to make a ballet video game. Nintendo's Punch Out severely lacked the finer aspects of what is known as the "sweet science." Fight Night Round 3 takes some great strides toward capturing the technical grace of pugilism.

First the science, or technical aspects: Even for the increasingly dated PlayStation2, the visuals are impressive; the controls are tried, true, and intuitive; and the character creation options are respectable. That alone makes Fight Night a winner. Not quite a KO, the soundtrack consists of too few hip-hop tracks – many with infuriating fighting imagery ("Mama Said Knock You Out" is thankfully absent). The sound effects are unobtrusive until a blood-/spit-misted knockdown punch is replayed in slow motion and the Foley artist gets a bit overzealous.