Day Trips

Caddo Lake State Park, near Uncertain, is shrouded in Spanish moss and mystery. This is one of the most unique environments in the state, and it has a beauty all its own.

On Big Cypress Bayou in Northeast Texas and straddling the Louisiana border, the lake has the distinction of being the only naturally formed lake in Texas. Legend says that the lake, named for the Indian nation that once lived in the area, was formed by an earthquake and flood caused by a Caddo chief angering the Great Spirit.

The story is at least partially true. The lake was probably formed by a massive flood that created a giant logjam downstream on the Red River. Known as the Great Raft, the natural dam clogged the river for more than 100 miles from Natchitoches, La., to north of Shreveport. Riverboats navigated the Big Cypress and turned Jefferson, Texas, into an inland port until the government destroyed the logjam in 1874 and lowered the water level.

A man-made dam near Mooringsport, La., was built in 1914 to protect the lake from completely draining. The result is that the 32,700-acre lake is a network of sloughs and swamps that supports a diverse population of plants and wildlife.

Although the lake has changed considerably in the more than a century since the logjam was removed, it's not hard to imagine steam-driven riverboats plying the waters of Caddo Lake. The main channels are defined by towering bald cypress trees draped in Spanish moss that form a wall along the banks. Cypress knees sprout from the murky water like stalagmites in a cave made of trees.

The state park is at the upper end of the lake, and the best way to explore the twisting water paths is by canoe. Bring your own or rent one from the concessionaire in the park. Because the maze of channels can be confusing, the Texas Parks & Wildlife Department has installed markers to help boaters find their way. You might feel better taking your first tour of the lake with one of the daily tours (except Wednesdays) on a pontoon boat driven by a park ranger.

An often overlooked asset of the 7,090-acre state park are trails that meander across the pine-tree-covered hills in the park. Totaling only about 2.5 miles, the trails mimic the winding channels of the lake, so they seem much longer.

The park was originally carved out of the woods by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s. Their handiwork is still present throughout the park, but nowhere is it more evident than in the nine log-and-rock cabins they built. Make your reservations early to enjoy one of the best rooms on the lake.

Caddo Lake State Park is one mile north of Karnack and 15 miles northeast of Marshall. For reservations go to www.tpwd.state.tx.us or call 389-8900. To call the park directly, dial 903/679-3351.

1,028th in a series. Collect them all. Day Trips, Vol. 2, a book of "Day Trips" 101-200, is available for $8.95, plus $3.05 for shipping, handling, and tax. Mail to: Day Trips, PO Box 33284, South Austin, TX 78704.