Day Trips

Livin' on Turkey time (Photo By Gerald E. McLeod)

The Hotel Turkey, in the Panhandle town of Turkey, stands as a red brick reminder of bygone days; slower times when folks had time to sit and chat while rocking in creaking wooden chairs on the front porch.

In the 74 years since it first opened, the hotel has never closed a day although it has gone through a succession of owners. In 1988, Scott and Jane Johnson gave the two-story building, a couple of blocks off of Main Street, a facelift and a new lease on life as a 16-room bed and breakfast. Montie Boles and her mother, Mona Boles, signed the papers finalizing the sale to a new set of owners last April 14.

Decorated in what could be called "American clutter," almost every available space is taken up with ranch mementos or antiques covered with frilly lace. Part museum and part grandmother's house, the old hotel has a comfortable feeling. It is all a part of the contradictions that make Turkey unique.

The hotel's lobby resembles a homey parlor with plush velvet couches and antique furniture. Overhead the original pressed tin ceiling retains a glimmer of sparkle while the original ceiling fans whirl. Hanging on a coat rack in the corner are a pair of well-worn leather chaps and a sweat-stained cowboy hat as if left by a guest.

The large dining room opposite the lobby is reminiscent of a boarding house supper hall. Long tables fill the room and make an ideal gathering place for reunions. One whole wall of the dining room is covered with old photographs of Turkey and its past residents.

Upstairs the rooms are rather small compared to chain hotels, but each one has its own personality that reflects the whimsy of the former owners. The rooms range from the frugal Bob Wills Room (the King of Western Swing originally hailed from Turkey) with its country music theme to the Girls Room with lots of lace and frills. Most of the rooms have a private bath, some have a shared bath, and four share the bathroom at the end of the hall. All of the rooms come with cable television and a continental breakfast.

Out back of the hotel, the tree-shaded patio offers a perfect place to watch the sunset. The tennis courts haven't seen much use lately, but Jake, the hotel's horse imported from Amish country, is as friendly as his owners. "He's real sweet," Montie says, and loves a good ear scratch.

In the evenings, Montie takes guests for a surrey ride around the dusty streets of Turkey and occasionally pulls out a carton of ice cream afterward as everyone relaxes in the air-conditioned comfort of the enclosed porches. "We just had a group from England," Montie says, "and a couple from Germany earlier. They were touring Texas and wanted to see Bob Wills' hometown. They had a real relaxing day hanging around town."

For being almost smack in the middle of the Texas Panhandle, there is a surprising large number of things to do in the area. The edge of the Caprock, the area where the flat High Plains drop off into the rolling hills of the rest of Texas, is one of the most spectacular sights of the state. Colorful canyon walls mark the abrupt transformation between the two geological zones. Driving the back roads in almost any direction from Turkey can result in some amazing scenic views.

About 15 miles east of Turkey, Caprock Canyons State Park near Quitaque is one of the underutilized gems of the state park system. The 15,161-acre park preserves two canyons smaller, but no less beautiful, than the popular Palo Duro Canyon near Amarillo. The park also includes a 64-mile hiking, biking, and equestrian trail that follows the old railroad route through tunnels and across abandoned bridges.

Quitaque (pronounced kit-a-kway) is also home to several antique shops and one of the best diners in the area. The Sportsman Restaurant offers a large meal with all the trimmings for $10, Montie says.

About a hundred miles from Lubbock or Amarillo, Turkey was once a stop on the railroad line. Originally called Turkey Roost, the name was shortened when the town got a post office. The hotel was built the year the town was incorporated in 1928. Irrigation turned the red dirt fields around town green with the cotton and peanut plants.

The Wills family moved to a farm in Hall County northeast of Turkey in the 1920s when Bob was in his early teens. The future bandleader learned to play the violin here and was soon playing dances in West Texas before he moved to Fort Worth to join the Light Crust Doughboys.

The town operates the Bob Wills Museum in City Hall at Sixth and Lyles Streets. The collection of photographs, musical instruments, and memorabilia from the days of the Texas Playboys fills two rooms. Open daily when a volunteer is available; for information call 806/423-1253.

A monument topped with two fiddles in the park at the west end of Main Street recognizes the musician's accomplishments. Every year the town hosts Bob Wills Day on the last Saturday of April when the hotel fills up with musicians and music lovers.

"And don't forget to mention that we have one of only four drive-in movie theaters left in Texas," Montie says. Whether it is to relax and enjoy the small-town ambience that hasn't changed much from the days when the trains passed through or to explore the scenic back roads of the Panhandle, the Hotel Turkey makes a great base camp while you're in the area. Room rates range from $45 to $89. For information, call 806/423-1151 or visit their Web site at www.turkeybb.com.

Coming up this weekend ...

Gillespie County Fair in Fredericksburg features horse racing, a carnival, and live music at the Gillespie County Fairgrounds, Aug. 23-26. 830/997-6523.

Big Bands and Cool Cars brings classic orchestras and cars to Kerrville along with ice cream socials, Aug. 24-26. 830/267-3600.

Hotter 'n' Hell Hundred Bicycle Race & Festival in Wichita Falls attracts cyclists from around the country for races, shows, and entertainment, Aug. 23-26. 940/322-3223.