Day Trips

Indian Lodge sits tucked away in the Davis Mountains like an ancient Indian pueblo between two rising peaks covered with desert grasses. Its existence seems timeless, familiar to many, but discovered by few. The white adobe walls of the Texas Parks & Wildlife Department-operated inn shine from distant overlooks as if it were a small lost city forgotten by time in the rugged West Texas mountain valley.

Modeled after the rambling mountain pueblos of New Mexico, the lodge was built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1933 in Keesey Canyon. The original 15 rooms were built on the mountain-side on varying levels around a central patio and lobby.

Many of the walls were made of 18-inch thick adobe that retains the coolness of the nights and the warmth of the small fireplaces before the days of central air and heat. The interior ceilings in the historic section are made of exposed vigas and latillas (pine and cane), common to the pueblo-style structures. The lodge is furnished with hand-carved furniture embellished with Southwestern motifs and made at Bastrop State Park, east of Austin.

In 1967, the state parks department added 24 hotel-style rooms. The remodeling included closing off the fireplaces and adding air conditioning, heat, televisions, and telephones. A heated pool was also added below the observation deck. Rates at the lodge range from $55 to $85. Kathy Knight, the front desk clerk, recommends making reservations four to six months in advance. "Most people book for a return visit as they're checking out," she said.

Despite its commanding view of the valley, the Black Bear Restaurant at the Lodge offers little in the way of culinary skills. Some guests have criticized the food as bland and overcooked, while others found it no worse than most roadside diners. The restaurant opens daily from 7am to 9pm. On Sunday it serves a lunch buffet from 9:30am to 2:30pm and closes from 2:30 to 5pm.

Indian Lodge is in the Davis Mountains State Park, a 2,678-acre preserve four miles north of Fort Davis. A five-mile park road winds to the top of Davis Mountain with its spectacular views. Only the vista from Mount Locke and the McDonald Observatory, 13 miles north of the park, offers a more impressive view.

Across the deep gorge cut by Keesey Creek from Indian Lodge, the park has a campground in a grove of oak trees. The park's interpretive center offers regular events, and a network of trails winds through the mountains. One trail follows the old stagecoach road to the old army post in Fort Davis. For information, call 915/426-3337. Reservations must be made through central reservations, 389-8900 (Austin).

Coming up this weekend...

Geburtstag Celebration in Giddings, a German festival with Texas barbecue at Airline Park, Sept. 27-29. 409/542-3455.

General Wool's Army returns to camp at the Landmark Inn in Castroville in a reenactment of the Mexican War campaign, Sept. 28-29. 210/931-2133. There also is an antique show at Koenig Park.

Coming up...

Texas Renaissance Festival salutes the artisans at the annual fair as well as several new shows, weekends Oct. 5-Nov. 17. 800/458-3435 or http://www.neosoft.com/~renfest.

Oktoberfest at Winedale means lots of food and music in conjunction with activities in Round Top, Oct. 5-6. 409/278-3530.